30 Sep 2025
Egg tarts, pineapple buns, tofu puddings, and dim sum are famed for being some of Hong Kong’s most sumptuous local delicacies. Sharing a rich history, unique cooking techniques, and exceptional craftsmanship, these foods have endeared themselves to people’s daily diet and their popularity shows no signs of waning from generation to generation. But how much do people really know about their stories?
In a new book about foods related to Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH), Dr Siu Yan-ho, Lecturer I of Department of Chinese Language and Literature, writes about how shop owners in Hong Kong preserve nine of the traditional making techniques that have been recognised among the city’s ICH inventory. The book also details the cultural dimension and history related to the foods, providing readers with insights into the essence of the dishes they eat every day.
Preserving culture through gastronomy
“Chinese cultural practices have been passed down through the ages, and food culture is an essential part of our culture,” says Dr Siu, whose research focuses on Chinese culture and Hong Kong’s food culture. “My book introduces ICH-related foods in Hong Kong in three categories, namely Cha Chaan Teng (Hong Kong-style cafés), fishery products, and handcrafted foods. Through the book, I hope to fill the gaps in the limited data on Hong Kong’s food culture as well as promote the heritage and awareness of ICH-related foods.”
Dr Siu’s work highlights some of Hong Kong’s iconic ICH-related foods and how their preparation techniques have evolved with the times, showing that ICH items are constantly recreated in response to their interaction with the communities and environment, thereby fostering cultural diversity. Pineapple bun, a common snack among locals, is one of such examples. This Cha Chaan Teng treat became popular in local cafés in the 1960s, when cafés tried to emulate western hotels by housing their own bakeries and selling Hong Kong-style pastries at affordable prices. A product of the East-meets-West food culture in Hong Kong, the pineapple bun consists of a flaky top improvised from the making of Chinese walnut cookies, while the part at the bottom was made in the style of western dinner rolls. Following changes in people’s culinary preferences and food trends, pineapple buns now include creative variations ranging from having a slab of butter wedged inside the bun to it brimming with different fillings. This kind of innovation breathes new life into traditional flavours and attracts patrons across generations.
Food for thought
Dr Siu’s interviews with the people who have been preserving ICH-related foods illustrate the lesser-known stories within the industry and add a human touch to the information about food culture. One interviewee runs a family business that has operated for nearly a century, keeping alive the craft of making shrimp paste blocks and shrimp paste as the business’ third generation. Another interview features a Cha Chaan Teng owner, with 40 years in the trade, who has dedicated himself to perfecting the art of brewing Hong Kong-style milk tea, driven by a passion for cultural preservation. “While we are enjoying the different foods, let’s not forget the nameless chefs who work tirelessly behind the scenes, doing their best to preserve these traditional values and craftsmanship. By understanding how food is made and their cooking philosophies, we can gain a deeper insight into the stories of the people who uphold the traditions of ICH-related foods.”
When penning his book, Dr Siu developed a profound appreciation of the relationship between the environment, people, and food. He says: “When different localities engage with the restaurants and food culture around them, the results are invariably unique.” He cites the example of a café owner who has formed strong bonds with the community where his restaurant is located, as he tries to preserve the vintage décor and ambiance of the café. Diners get to savour the Cha Chaan Teng great classics while experiencing the legacy of Hong Kong’s food culture through the establishment’s long history.
Handing down ICH-related food making techniques and food culture from generations to generations is a way of keeping local heritage alive. Dr Siu encourages people to try different ICH-rated foods and learn to appreciate traditional food-making craftsmanship. He says: “When people eat, they engage not only with the food itself but also with the culture behind it. I hope that this book can raise public awareness of ICH-rated foods in Hong Kong, deepen the understanding of the historical and cultural context behind these foods and their cooking techniques, and inspire people to discover the uniqueness of Hong Kong food.” Despite a challenging business environment, the interviewees featured in the book remain committed to crafting high-quality food. Their efforts to honour the legacy of ICH-related food-making techniques and enrich Hong Kong’s culinary landscape are truly commendable, lending more meaning and value to the experience of casual dining in the city.